Ritzy roughing it in Malibu's Leo Carrillo State Park

By MATT LAIT Los Angeles TimesArticle Launched:03/13/2007 03:04:58 PM PDTMALIBU, Calif.

The campground at Leo Carrillo State Park is a scenic retreat where a family can hike the Santa Monica Mountains, explore tide pools or simply hang out around the fire pit. It's also just a quick drive to a venti-sized cafe latte: We call it "Starbucks camping." And it's perfect for folks whose idea of "roughing it" includes access to flush toilets and a well-inflated air mattress.

Each summer, my wife, Leslie, and I take our two boys, Riley and Casey, to Leo Carrillo because it's a fun, affordable beach weekend in one of the country's ritziest swaths of real estate. That fun, especially in summer, requires some planning. Because of the campsite's popularity, campground reservations for weekend spots must be made about six months in advance. Many of the campsites can easily fit two families. On our last trip we reserved two campsites for four like-minded, pseudo-outdoorsy families.

Getting here early is also key to a successful camping experience. Campers line up outside the park's gate about 10 a.m. so they can get sites that are more secluded or adjoining. The park, which is open year-round, is part beach, part wilderness, bisected by the Pacific Coast Highway. It is named after Leo Carrillo, an actor known for playing Pancho, the sidekick to the Cisco Kid in a 1950s TV series. Carrillo was also a preservationist who served on the California Beach and Parks Commission and helped the state acquire Hearst Castle in San Simeon.

The campsites at Leo Carrillo are nestled among a grove of giant sycamores. To the north is Arroyo Sequit Creek. Head east and you find trails through the Santa Monica Mountains. Walk west a short way and you hit the Pacific Ocean. Our weekend trips generally have us going both east and west.

The beauty of this place is that our boys rarely utter the words "I'm bored." It's literally a natural playground that keeps them occupied. The only thing that got them out of the tide pools and sea caves was high tide. They found sand crabs, hermit crabs and a slimy sea slug. Beyond the breakers we saw dolphins breaching the surface.

The park's miles of beach are its key attraction. Surf flicks, such as "Gidget," were filmed here. There are stretches of sandy beaches, as well as areas with rocky coves. It is a sportsman's paradise: surfing, scuba diving, windsurfing, kite-surfing, fishing and sand castle building. It's easy to see why so many Hollywood stars make their homes in Malibu.

After a long day at the beach, we head back to the campground for the evening's activities: showers, dinner, campfire, s'mores and sleep. People like to say that food somehow tastesbetter when you're camping. That's generally true as long as you have a good bottle of wine and your coals stay hot. On our last trip, I inadvertently made chicken tartare.

While the beach is the focal point for our group of campers, we also enjoy the nearby hiking trails in the Santa Monica Mountains. We like the Nicholas Flat Trail, which starts right outside the campground and goes about two miles up through native grasslands and coastal sage scrub to meadows and woodlands. At the top of a medium-sizedpeak, there's a stunning view of the ocean and a canyon.

It's an easy enough trek for seven boys, ages 9 to 3, and two middle-aged men. Bird lovers can hike to a little pond in Nicholas Flat where ducks, coots, hawks and other birds can be spotted, especially in spring. Monarch butterflies also migrate to the meadows near the park. There are more vigorous trails for those so inclined. But beware: Our friends saw a rattlesnake. Poison oak is another hazard along the trail.

When the beaches and mountains have been explored, the campsite itself has much to offer. Kids ride bikes and scooters throughout the grounds. Our boys like to play Wiffle ball. The park even has free Wi-Fi for those who can't survive without the Internet.

During the summers, rangers give guided tours and campfire presentations in which they talk about the local fauna and flora. If we forget firewood or some other crucial supplies, there is a camp store. If it doesn't have what we need, it's another short drive to Hows Market, a shopping spot for celebrities. That proximity to civilization is convenient in other ways. Last year, one father took one of his sons home for the evening because he became sick. Another dad commuted to work from the campsite.

For the ambitious camper looking for activities outside the park, there is the historic Adamson House, which overlooks Surfrider Beach by the Malibu Pier and Malibu Lagoon. We took a tour of the house several years ago, and it was well worth the admission. The main attraction of the house is the exquisite tiling made by Malibu Potteries, which is the homeowners' business.

Generally, however, we are more than content exploring and loitering around the campsite. Each year offers new adventures and brings us closer to nature. All within reach of a strong cup of coffee.
If You Go ...
GETTING THERE: To get to Malibu's Leo Carrillo State Park, take Highway 1 and exit at 35000 W. Pacific Coast Highway.
GENERAL INFORMATION: general info (818) 880-0350; Leo Carrillo State Park ranger station, (805) 488-1827.
ON THE NET: http://www.parks.ca.gov
Source of this newspaper article: http://www.mercurynews.com/news/ci_5426967

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